- 1). Rub mineral spirits on the table’s surface with a rag to remove a shellac or wax finish. Let the mineral spirits sit for half an hour before scraping the finish off. Use a commercial lacquer remover to remove a lacquer or varnish finish.
- 2). Rinse the table’s surface with denatured alcohol to remove the finish remover and residue.
- 3). Sand the table along the grain to remove stain. Start with 100-grit sandpaper and work up to finer grains until the stain is removed and the table has an even, very smooth surface.
- 4). Rinse the table with denatured alcohol and allow it to dry. Wipe it with a tack rag to remove any dust.
- 5). Apply sealer thinned with solvent to the cherry wood surface, using a nylon cloth. Wipe the sealer off immediately. Do not sand the sealer before staining, as this will result in a blotchy finish. Different sealers take different solvents. Varnish is mixed with an equal part of turpentine, for example. Tung oil takes no solvent.
- 6). Wipe on cherry wood stain according to package directions. You may need to paint it on with a brush or wipe it on with a rag. Test the stain on a hidden area of the table first to ensure a good match. Allow the stain to dry and apply a second coat if desired. Wipe the table with a tack rag before adding filler.
- 7). Mix wood filler with cherry wood stain until it matches the color of the table’s surface. Fill the table’s cracks and dents with the filler and smooth it with a putty knife. Allow the filler to dry thoroughly, then lightly sand the filler. Wipe the table with a tack rag to remove sanding dust.
- 8). Coat the table surface with a thin layer of the same sealer you used before staining, (Do not mix in solvent this time). Depending on the specific type of finish, you may spray it on, wipe it on with a rag or paint it on with a short bristle brush.
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