- 1). Fill the cup of an air spray gun about 3/4-full with the clearcoat material, then screw on the cup and plug the gun into an air compressor. Turn on the compressor and give it two minutes to charge.
- 2). Test the spray pattern on a piece of scrap wood, metal or cardboard. Adjust the nozzle to control the quantity of sprayed material by loosening or tightening it, and adjust the fan orientation by rotating the nozzle through 90 degrees. Try to achieve a fan width that will minimize overspray while maximizing coverage from a distance of 6 to 10 inches from the surface.
- 3). Add about 10 percent thinner or reducer to the clearcoat if the spray is chunky or weak. Be sure to use a thinner that is recommended for the material you are using. Don't over-thin the material or it will dry too quickly, producing a rough, grainy surface.
- 4). Spray the surface in a steady motion, either up-down or back-and-forth, overlapping the spray pattern about 50 percent and keeping the gun at a uniform distance from the surface at all times. If the material drips or runs, hold the gun a little further away and keep spraying. Do not try to correct the drips until they dry.
- 5). Rotate the nozzle by 90 degrees and spray the surface in a perpendicular direction immediately after you have finished spraying in the other direction. This will eliminate hungry spots that may have been left after the first spraying.
- 6). Let the first coat dry for the time recommended by the manufacturer. For lacquer, this may be as little as 20 minutes and for urethane, 30 minutes to 2 hours.
- 7). Sand the first coat by hand with 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper to knock down rough spots and drips. Wipe off the sanding dust with a tack cloth, then spray the surface again. Sand the second coat with 400-grit sandpaper and spray on a third. Continue sanding and spraying until you are satisfied with the final finish.
- 8). Spread polishing compound on the final coat and buff the surface with a polishing cloth.
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